The Bitterroot River

The Bitterroot is one of those rare Montana rivers that does it all for guides. It impresses the advanced angler with its challenging large trout in the middle sections and rewards the new angler with West Slope Cutthroat trout in the upper river. The scenery is exactly what we imagine a Montana fly fishing river should look like.

I was raised on a ranch in the Bitterroot Valley and I am hard pressed to find a better place to fish, float, hunt, and live.

– Joe Cummings
Outfitter, Missoula River Lodge

This is my home water that I grew up fly fishing as child. It is beautiful and diverse in a way that sets this water apart in the fly fishing world. The Bitterroot watershed is healthy and beloved by our guests and locals alike. The dry fly fishing season starts in March with Skwala stoneflies and runs deep into October with the emergence of Blue Wing Olives. From the spring creek influenced middle river around Stevensville, to the canyon tailwater in the West Fork near Darby, out to the long flats at the mouth near Missoula, the Bitterroot has every build for the dry fly angler. To see videos of fly fishing action on the Bitterroot River please click here.

If stalking picky brown trout, shelved up on skinny gravel bars, sipping little dries is your idea of heaven, then the Bitterroot River is the place.

If floating the banks with big, attractor dries to fool willing cutthroat trout is your idea of magic fly fishing, then the Bitterroot River fills that fly fishing bill as well.

“The Root”

The Bitterroot River, or as our guides affectionately call it “The Root”, is a river of three different worlds. It begins deep in the Bitterroot range of the Rocky Mountains and runs north through the stunning Bitterroot valley. Bracketed by the Sapphire Range to the east, it meanders along until emptying itself at Maclay Flats into the Lower Clark Fork River.

Upstream of Hamilton, East Fork, and West Fork

The State of Montana Fisheries Department’s population count of the water upstream of Hamilton places the wild trout population at over 1700 per mile. Dominated by pure strain West Slope Cutthroat Trout, the section represents one of the strongholds of this native trout’s home watershed. The Upper Bitterroot River’s cutthroat trout are a willing group that rewards the beginning angler with short casts, easily seen flies, and a species that is hardwired in its genetics to eat dry flies. The Trapper Peak complex with its 10,000 foot snow capped mountains provides a fitting back drop for the angler that should look up from the water as much as they watch their large dry fly getting gulped by a native Montana trout.

Hamilton to Florence

The Bitterroot slackens its gradient here and settles into the hayfields and cottonwood groves around Stevensville. It is the favorite section of our fly fishing guides. The trout population drops in this reach, but is offset due to many of our trout over 20 inches living in this piece of the river. They are bigger, smarter (as all old fish are), and relate habitually to the plentiful downed wood and shallow gravel bars. We will take multiple trout well over 2 feet long throughout each season when all the stars align and the right dry fly floats over a sneaky spot. The more experienced angler is at home here and will find this segment filled with the clichés of what a classic fly fishing float trip should be. The float from Bell Crossing to Stevensville bridge is my all time favorite float in this state. Rich, plentiful, diverse big fish habitat will test your fishing mettle, and our fly fishing guides skill as well.

Florence to Kelly Island

Slowing down even more, the Bitterroot in the lower twenty miles starts to look like its wide Lower Clark Fork Sister. Rainbow trout are plentiful here and the Cutthroat trout appear again. The long, slow glides over pea gravel lend themselves to mayfly hatches and pod creation. The occasional lurking whopper brown trout keep things interesting, as some of the biggest browns caught around Missoula come from this section. Complex drifts presented to picky rising fish test the finest dry fly angler’s abilities.

Upper Bitterroot River – Upstream of Hamilton, East Fork, and West Fork

The State of Montana Fisheries Department’s population count of the water upstream of Hamilton places the wild trout population at over 1700 per mile. Dominated by pure strain West Slope Cutthroat Trout, the section represents one of the strongholds of this native trout’s home watershed. The Upper Bitterroot River’s cutthroat trout are a willing group that rewards the beginning angler with short casts, easily seen flies, and a species that is hardwired in its genetics to eat dry flies. The Trapper Peak complex with its 10,000 foot snow capped mountains provides a fitting back drop for the angler that should look up from the water as much as they watch their large dry fly getting gulped by a native Montana trout.

Hamilton to Florence Section

The Bitterroot slackens its gradient here and settles into the hayfields and cottonwood groves around Stevensville. It is the favorite section of our fly fishing guides. The trout population drops in this reach, but is offset due to many of our trout over 20 inches living in this piece of the river. They are bigger, smarter (as all old fish are), and relate habitually to the plentiful downed wood and shallow gravel bars. We will take multiple trout well over 2 feet long throughout each season when all the stars align and the right dry fly floats over a sneaky spot. The more experienced angler is at home here and will find this segment filled with the clichés of what a classic fly fishing float trip should be. The float from Bell Crossing to Stevensville bridge is my all time favorite float in this state. Rich, plentiful, diverse big fish habitat will test your fishing mettle, and our fly fishing guides skill as well.

Florence to Kelly Island

Slowing down even more, the Bitterroot in the lower twenty miles starts to look like its wide Lower Clark Fork Sister. Rainbow trout are plentiful here and the Cutthroat trout appear again. The long, slow glides over pea gravel lend themselves to mayfly hatches and pod creation. The occasional lurking whopper brown trout keep things interesting, as some of the biggest browns caught around Missoula come from this section. Complex drifts presented to picky rising fish test the finest dry fly angler’s abilities.

Bitterroot River Dry Fly Hatches

March – April: Skwalas, March Browns, Blue Wing Olives

Skwala Stoneflies begin in early March and represent the best early season, large dry opportunity in North America. The big bug is a size 10 and fished on short 3x leaders. As water temperatures warm in April, we add March Browns and Blue Wing Olives to the mix.
Weather: Highs in the 50-60s, lows in the 30s

Skwala.

May: Mother’s Day Caddis

Generally, for three weeks of May we experience run-off as our snow melts. During dips in river flows, we take advantage of Mother’s Day Caddis hatch. May can be hit and miss on for Bitterroot water conditions, but when flows are right fly fishing can be exceptional.
Weather: Highs 60s-70s, lows in the 40s

June: Salmonflies, Golden Stones, Green Drakes

Early June brings Salmonflies to the Upper Bitterroot River. By Mid June, our Golden Stones cover both the middle river and upper Bitterroot River. Late June brings in our Green Drakes the length of the river, especially on cloudy days. By the end of the month we are in the midst lots of dry fly options.
Weather: Highs 60s-70s, lows in the 40s

July: Golden Stones, Pale Morning Duns, Caddis, Nocturnal Stoneflies

Golden Stones continue across the drainage start July, and now we will get our Pale Morning Duns and Caddis in the mornings and evenings. This change to mid sized hatches produces more true rising fish pods and rewards the longer caster who likes to stalk big fish on rhythm to dries.
Weather: Highs 70s-80s, lows in the 50s

Golden.

August– Tricos, Hoppers, Nocturnal Stoneflies

Tricos are our smallest mayfly  emerge in massive numbers in the Middle and Lower Bitterroot River. Fly fishing the spinner fall to sipping, sighted trout targets  can be challenging, large, and rewarding. In the afternoon, after staring at little flies on light tippet, we cut the leaders back to 2x monofilament and large grasshopper patterns to imitate the naturals that are coming off the grass in the warmth of August. On the early morning floats, Nocturnal Stones keep the trout looking up from the night before. Seldom seen during the daylight, the trout definitely remember what they are. A skated or twitched size six dry will move even the largest trout.
Weather: Highs 70s-80s, lows in the 50s

September – October: Hecubas, Mahoganies, Blue Wing Olives, October Caddis

Hecubas, our fall drake make their appearance on warm, rainy days at the beginning of the month. The afternoon hatching mayflies pile back in across the Bitterroot drainage providing pods up on mid sized dries. Trout are extra motivated this month as they start to feel the creep of November’s cold water and a long Montana winter coming on. Our brown trout get into a nasty pre-spawn mood that the angler with a large streamer can take advantage of and stick trout in the 4-7 pound range. September and October is awesome scenery, fishing, and consistent fall conditions.
Weather: Highs 60s-70s, lows in the 40s

Bitterroot River map.